STEP 5 Repair chips or cracks in the fence with wood filler. If needed, replace damaged slats.
Similarly, protect surrounding vegetation at the foot of the fence by covering it with drop cloths. Then, enlist a brush, roller, or sprayer to stain the slats. Dip the tip of the brush into a can of stain, then coat any horizontal slats of the fence from left to right.
Afterwards, work your way from top to bottom down the entire length of each vertical slat, maintaining a wet tip at all times. Stain one to two slats at a time to prevent lap marks from forming. One you reach the bottom of a slat, stain the end grain. Apply the stain in two- to three-foot sections of the fence at a time, taking care to back-brush, or re-paint over uncovered areas left by the previous stroke, with a wide brush.
This will allow the stain to enter hard-to- reach grooves and recesses, and ensure an even coat free of lap marks. Apply additional coats of stain as needed to achieve the desired depth of color.
STEP 8 While a good quality stain alone is sufficient to protect your fence from everyday wear-and-tear, applying a durable sealant over the stain can prolong the finish—and the life of your fence. For best results, apply a single coat of clear, weatherproof sealant by brush, roller, or sprayer.
Quickly back-brush unsealed grooves and recesses with a wide brush to achieve a uniform appearance. STEP 9 Allow the sealant to dry completely. If using wood fillers, make sure they are fully dry and hardened before you move on to sanding. When sanding hardwoods, the goal is usually the smoothest surface possible, but this is not the case when sanding an exterior deck surface. For sanding deck floorboards, use sandpapers with grits no rougher than 60 or Sanding with finer-grit papers grit or above will smooth the wood to the point where the pores begin to close down, which will hinder the absorption of stain or sealer into the wood.
Use medium pressure on your hand sander, checking for evenness of appearance as you go. Thorough vacuuming of all surfaces is important before you move on to staining and sealing the deck. Sanding the outer edges of the deck board may be a little difficult depending on your deck design, especially if the railings have a very low bottom baluster rail that makes access difficult.
Here, a smaller detail sander may prove useful if your standard orbital sander won't fit.
Again, use a sandpaper grit of 60 to 80 for the end grain of decking boards, and make sure to sand as evenly as possible, since stains are often absorbed unevenly into end grain if the boards aren't sanded to uniform evenness. Sanding the railing of your deck is very important since it the most visible element, and the one where people focus their attention.
On railings, use to grit sandpaper, and take pains to sand all surfaces and crevices. Here, a detail sander or even sanding by hand may be necessary to get to all areas, but again, do not sand to a smoothness that will prevent the stain from penetrating.
Vacuum thoroughly, but also wipe all surfaces with a clean rag to remove all trace of sanding dust before you move on to staining and sealing. It is best to move only staining and sealing very quickly after sanding. Make sure that all surfaces are carefully vacuumed free of sanding dust, then wipe the surfaces down with a tack cloth to remove all traces of dust before moving on to staining or sealing. Sanding a Wood Deck.
Continue to 2 of 6 below. Preparation Steps. Continue to 3 of 6 below.
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Sanding the Deck Surface. Continue to 4 of 6 below. Sanding Board Edges.